It is quite probable that every seafood shack or fine restaurant from the Maryland Coast headed South to the tip of Florida claims to make a GOOD crab cake or the BEST crab cake. I have been lead down the path of trusting a waiters recommendation only to be disappointed far too many times.

This is even after I whisper to him, are you sure this restaurant makes the BEST crab cake sir?

You see I make the the BEST crab cakes and know the difference between the BEST and an OKAY crab cake.

Yes, our crab cakes are the BEST trust me, the waiter often replies.

I look into the waiters eyesto see if they are twitching or if there is a moment of hesitation or regret after his statement was made. If I discover a twitch I change my order and go for some Salmon, which is sure to be a safe menu choice.

Often there is no sign of twitching so I go forward with trust and order the BEST crab cake and pray that it will live up to my expectations. I have a good Yankee recipe, in fact it might be the best Yankee recipe for crab cakes that I have ever tasted. It has been adapted over the years and originally came from a 4-5 page article in Town & Country Magazine which featured Maryland style crab cakes. Inspired by the magazine we created a sauce to go with the crab cakes that we often made at home.

The husband is allergic to crab, so I don’t make them very often. Having the evening to myself, I opted to fix crab cakes for dinner along with some Lemon Glazed Sweet Potatoes which is another food the husband won’t eat. My meal was simply divine and I am glad I went the extra mile for myself.

Crab cakes have a story in my house, as this was the first food my daughter Lindsey ate. I still can remember that night when we sat down at the table. It was a long day as we had just spent the better part of it at the hospital having one evasive test after another to see why she wouldn’t eat her baby food.

Lindsey was our second of three daughters and the most stubborn. Lindsey spit out her baby food refusing everything except her bottle. I slaved over the stove preparing homemade baby food, when that didn’t work I bought every store bought brand and taste I could find. They all produced the same results, she refused to eat and held out for her bottle.

This went on till 16 months of age when a trip to the pediatrician to discuss the final results of the testing sent me away with instructions to take away her bottle and let her sit her in her high chair at dinner to eat or go hungry. As usual, she refused the baby food I put in front of her, making clear she would have no part of the meal. When suddenly out of frustration and to this day I am not sure if was her frustration or mine she waved her hand at our dinner.

Of course as the story would go we were dining on crab cakes, she wanted what we were eating. I gave her one. Her first meal was eaten with success which put a smile on her face and mine. Lindsey is now 27 years old and when she visits she still wants me to fix crab cakes for her. From that moment forward my daughter ate grown-up food, skipping the baby food step altogether.

As loved as my recipe is in my home, I honestly have a new recipe for a BETTER crab cake. When I saw the title to Scott and Miss Edna’s recipe, my first response was yeah right, another crab cake claim. But if they say this is an honestly GOOD crab cake then I must take them on their word and give a hand at making them.

I have come to trust them these past months, both Scott and Miss Edna seem to guide me in and around Southern cooking in a way that makes me most comfortable in the kitchen. As they take me down an unfamiliar path, they do so in a manner that instills confidence and peace in my cooking. This cook is enjoying where I am going. Everything is made so different than what I have grown up eating. despite this I am fitting in sooner than I expected.

Of course they were right these are honestly GOOD crab cakes. In fact it is the BEST crab cake I have ever had for that matter. As much as it saddens me I just might have to retire my stash of Old Bay Seasoning at least for a little while along with my trusted crab cake recipe. There is a subtleties in this recipe that surpasses any other crab cake I have eaten.

The simplest of ingredients were used, jumbo lump crab meat to start. Fresh bread crumbs to give a little body to them, thinly sliced scallion rounds, chopped onions, butter to moisten the crab meat and eggs to bind them. Then a little dredging in flour shaking off the excess. The flour helped to form the most perfect crispy crust that sealed in the moistness of the crab. I had two they were that good, resisting was impossible.

Having my eye on the Lemon Glazed Sweet Potatoes for quite some time now, I forged ahead and made them to accompany my dinner. Out of this world is all I can say. Scott suggests eating one cold the next day with a cup of strong black coffee. Of course I would be remiss if I failed to give this a go. It was good, and I had a moment while eating it off a fork pitched in the air upside down that made me understand something about Southern food that I had not grasped before. I am most certain that there is a bond between Southerners and their food that is unlike any other in our country. A gentleness and connection that for me goes beyond words. I am beginning to have glimpses of experiencing this connection.

I have lots of leftovers which I will share with my daughter Meredith who lives in Charleston. Homemade white bread was made yesterday, so some good sandwiches are in order for leftovers. But more about that tomorrow. In the meantime, do give both of these a try. A little side of baby arugula was the perfect addition and balanced the sweetness of the Lemon Glazed Potatoes.

Honestly Good Crab Cakes

Scott Peacock and Edna Lewis, The Gift of Southern Cooking

1 pound jumbo or lump crabmeat

1 small onion, finely chopped (1/2 cup)

4 scallions or green onions sliced thin

1 cup fresh bread crumbs

3/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon fresh ground pepper

1/4 teaspoon cayenne

a few drops of fresh squeezed lemon juice

2 eggs, lightly beaten

1 cup all purpose flour

8 tablespoons unsalted butter

• Carefully pick over crabmeat and remove any bits of cartilage and shell.
• Put crab meat in a mixing bowl, and add the onion, scallions, bread crumbs, salt, pepper, cayeene, and lemon juice.
• Toss lightly but thoroughly to blend.
• Beat the two eggs and add the cooled melted butter, mix together.
• Pour over crab meat mixture and gently fold to combine being carefull not to break the lumps.
• Taste the crab for seasoning and add more pepper or salt, cayenne or lemon juice if needed.
• Use a 1/3 cup measure to divide the crab into 8 portions.
• Shape the crab portions into round cakes about 1/2 inch thick and approxiametly 2 to 2 1/2 inches in diameter.
• Dredge each cake in flour gently removing the excess.
• Chill on platter for about an hour to set.
• Heat butter in skillet (may have to do in two batches or two pans) until hot and foaming.
• Put crab cakes in pan leaving at least 1/2 inch apart.
• Cook over moderate heat for 4 minutes each side, being carefull when turning.
• Drain on paper towel and serve hot.

Lemon Glazed Sweet Potatoes

Scott Peacock and Edna Lewis, The Gift of Southern Cooking

3 medium sweet potatoes

1 cup water for glaze

1 cup granulated sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

2 tablespoons unsalted butter for greasing pan

• Preheat oven to 350 degrees
• Put potatoes in a pot and cover with water, boil for 10 minutes or until just tender. Be carefull not to overcook.
• Let cool, and then peel potatoes followed by cutting into 5 to 6 sections crosswise.
• Meanwhile put the water and sugar and salt in a nonreactive saucepan and bring to a vigorous boil, stirring until the sugar is dissovled.
• Boil for 5 minutes remove from heat and add lemon juice and nutmeg.
• Butter the baking dish or pan well with the butter making sure to get the sides.
• Arrange the potatoes in a single layer.
• Pour the syrup over them, if you have too much reserve some and keep to baste.
• Bake in a preheated oven for 35-40 minutes.
• Baste often while cooking.
• If they are not brown enough carefully broil them in the oven for a few minutes till they lightly brown.
• The edges may darken which is delicous so don’t worry about this.
• Serve hot.